Wednesday, September 21, 2005

Breguet Marine 5817PR No. 1.

Only Watch 2005 charity auction.The Marine 5817PR Designed in the grand tradition of the exclusive timepieces created by A.-L. Breguet himself for the Royal French Navy, the Marine 5817PR model’s assertive personality displays an arresting mix of refinement and modern spirit. Numbered 1/7, its stunning case features a pink gold frame with bezel and back in platinum. Its elegant 18K gold dial plate with black rhodium finish is enhanced by a subtle wave pattern, engine-turned by hand in the traditional manner. Faceted pink gold hands show the time on its silvered chapter ring’s pink gold numerals. Chased entirely by an engraver’s steady hand, the self-winding movement’s decor alludes to the achievements of astronomers, navigators and explorers of the past in a fascinating display that includes a sailing ship, naval knots, navigational stars and instruments. Its dramatic good looks are due in part to the contrast between its dark, oxidized frame and its bright, pink gold oscillating weight designed like a sextant. Adding a trim contemporary note, this salute to the collection’s early history comes with a sporty black rubber strap. Painstakingly finished and elaborately decorated by hand, the design’s unique character embodies a full measure of respect for the centuries-old values and spirit underpinning Breguet’s reputation. Case: Round, 18K pink gold, with fluted caseband, bezel and case back in platinum, screw-down crown, round-ended screw-secured lugs. Caseback hand-engraved on a rose engine, with sapphire crystal, Water-resistant to 100 meters (~ 330 feet). Bracelet: Rubber with deployant clasp. Diameter: 39 mm. Thickness: 11,85 mm. Dial: Black rhodium on 18K gold, engraved by hand on a rose engine, silvered chapter ring with applied pink gilt Roman numerals, center seconds hand, large date aperture at 6 o’clock. Luminous gold Breguet hands. Movement: Cal. 517GG, 11’’’1/2, self-winding, entirely chased with relievo engraving and blackened by oxidation to represent traditional sailing themes: a sailing ship, celestial bodies (sun, North Star, constellations), naval rope knots, wind rose and names of astronomers, navigators and explorers, 25 jewels. 65-hour power reserve, straight-line lever escapemen, monometallic balance adjusted in 5 positions, 28,800 VPH. 18K pink gold rotor shaped like a ship’s sextant.