Friday, September 30, 2005

Franck Muller Crazy Hours Monte Carlo

This year, FRANCK MULLER has decided to contribute to this exceptional charity operation by offering a timepiece exclusively created for the "Only watch 2005". The Crazy Hours Monte Carlo Movement: Self-winding mechanical movement. Hours, minutes. Crazy Hours module. Thanks to this original and patented module, the conventional clockwise arrangement of the hours from 1 to 12 is replaced by a new and original order which not only permits everyone to assign their own values to the hours but also ensures that, despite this freedom, accurate time keeping remains unimpaired. Dial: Sun stamped, white lacquered dial decorated with filigree figures. Luminous numerals in red. Coat of arms of the Principality of Monaco. Case: Cintrée Curvex case in 18 carat white gold with « Monaco » engraved on the back. Strap: Red hand-stitched alligator strap fitted with an ardillon buckle in 18 carat white gold.


Wednesday, September 28, 2005

Eterna KonTiki GMT

Pièce Unique for the “only watch 2005” charity auction. Eterna KonTiki sports watches have their origin in a friendship between two men. Thor Heyerdahl, the Norwegian researcher and traveller was a friend of former Eterna boss Dr. Rudolf Schild-Comtesse. On his celebrated KonTiki expedition, Thor Heyerdahl wore a watch from his friend’s factory. That is why, ever since 1958, Eterna has been building sports watches under the name KonTiki. The timepiece created for Only Watch 05 is the first and only KonTiki GMT made in red gold. Even the colour scheme of the dial does not occur in this combination elsewhere. Movement: Mechanical ETA Calibre 2893-2, self-winding, special Eterna Rotor, COSC certified Chronometer, 21 jewels, engine turned bridges, 28,800 alternations per hour, 4 Hz, reserve 46 hours, overall diameter of movement 26.20 mm. Dial/Hands: Black dial, Arabic figures and triangular indices. Indices, hours, minutes, seconds and the skeleton 24 hour hand are gold-edged and coated with Superluminova. 24 hour scale on Superluminova background, day hours in white, night hours in grey, even hours in Arabic figures, odd hours as bar indices. Hours, minutes and seconds display by centre hands, date display at 4.30, hour display of a second time zone on 24 hour scale by fourth centre hand. World time display by internal rotating ring divided into time zones, rotatable from outside by means of the bezel. Case/Back/Strap: Case and bezel in 18 carat red gold, diving time divisions engraved on bezel, rotating bezel with Eterna patented seal, back with KonTiki medallion in 18 carat white gold, Only Watch 05 engraving in frame, waterproof to 200 m; diameter: 42.4 mm; thickness: 13.5 mm. Crocodile strap with red gold clasp. Accompanied by a special edition of the KonTiki watch box with compass and extra strap in rubber, certificate of uniqueness and guarantee.


Tuesday, September 27, 2005

DeWitt Tourbillon Differentiel Academia "Espoir 2005"

Pièce Unique for the “only watch 2005” charity auction. Case and bracelet: Titanium, red gold and rubber “Academia” case, with bezel and middle section engraved with the DeWitt “Imperial Columns”, 43 mm diameter, sapphire case back with special engraving mention “Only Watch”, water resistant to 30 meters. White rubber strap with red gold folding clasp buckle. Dial: The dial is replaced by a succession of revelations of “guilloché” red and white plate and bridge with “Côtes de Genève” pattern. Movement: DeWitt mechanical, manual winding movement, caliber DW8002, manufactured in Vandoeuvres, Tourbillon and patented hand-winding system of power reserve indicator, 120 hours power reserve, 24 jewels, 51° lever escapement, 9.80 mm height, 30 mm diameter. Flat balance-spring, 21’600 vph, special 4 arms Gyromax. Accompanied by certificate of authenticity and special box.


Monday, September 26, 2005

deLaCour The Bichrono

Bichrono Hommage, Pièce Unique for the “only watch 2005” charity auction.
Case: Two-piece case, curved, curved sapphire crystal, pink gold crown and pushers, back fastened by 8 screws, two round sapphire crystals showing the movements, water resistant to 3 atm. Dimensions: 52 x 53.5 Thickness: 14 mm Strap: crocodile leather, hand-stitched; pink-gold buckle. Dial: Natural precious red wood; hand set on a titanium monobloc base, printed Arabic numerals. Indications: Right movement; minute counter at 3; small second at 3; hour counter at 12; center seconds tachymeter. Left movement: minute counter at 9; small second at 3; hour counter at 6; center seconds; tachymeter. Movement: Automatic, two chronographs ETA 2094, autonomy 37 hours; 33 jewels; 28.800 vph; top quality flat balancespring; rotor blued and engraved; decorated with côtes de Genève and circular patterns, Functions: Double chronograph each with three counters, date indicator, hour, minute, small seconds.


Sunday, September 25, 2005

Chopard Quattro Regulator

The Palladium “L.U.C. 4R” Quattro Regulator “Only Watch 2005”, Pièce Unique.
Case: Round, palladium, sloped bezel, downturned lugs, sapphire crystals, case back secured by screws, water-resistant to 30 m., pushpiece in the band for correction of the second time-zone. Diam. 39.5 mm. Thickness 9.75 mm. Bracelet: Crocodile with 18K white gold deployant clasp. Dial: Two-tone black and gray on a gold plate, sun-ray engine-turned central field, outer white gold Arabic five minutes, outermost minute divisions, Arabic hour chapter at 3, subsidiary seconds with date aperture at 6, second time-zone in 24 hours at 9, 8-day power reserve sector at 12. White gold “Dauphine” hands. Movement: Calibre L.U.C. 1.3789. 12.5’’’, C.O.S.C. certified chronometer, rhodium plated, “fausses côtes” decoration, stamped with the Seal of Geneva quality hallmark, four barrels in tandem “Quattro”, 216 hour (9 day) power reserve, 224 components, 39 jewels, monometallic three-arm annular balance, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, 28,800 VPM Incabloc shock absorber, swan-neck micrometer adjustment to the regulator.


Saturday, September 24, 2005

de Grisogono Instrumento Grande Open Date

Specially created for Only Watch 2005, No. 1. Wristwatch Ref. CS N07 in 18K pink gold on black nappa strap with pink gold de GRISOGONO deployment clasp Black guilloché dial with exclusive No 0001 marking protected by a cambered and extremely scratch resistant sapphire crystal Supersize date at 6 o'clock with open-work dial over the date discs 18K pink gold Dauphine hands and hour markers inlaid with superluminova are easy to read in dim light Crown bears the distinctive de GRISOGONO crest Scratch resistant sapphire crystal case back and side window reveals the self-winding movement Water-resistant to 30 meters (~100 feet)


Friday, September 23, 2005

de Bethune Platinum DB S 8-day Prototype

Only Watch 2005 charity auction. Piece unique . Case: Asymmetrical, platinum, screw-downwinding crown at 12, ogival lugs at 6, hooded lugs at 12, sapphire crystal. Dimensions: 45 x 42.5 mm. Thickness: 11mm. Bracelet: Crocodile with platinum buckle. Dial: Silvered gold chapter ring with blued steel cabochon indexes open at the center to view the movement, inner minute divisions with blued steel five minute markers, three-dimensional moon phase in platinum and blued steel at 6. Blued steel “De Bethune” hands. Movement: Hand-wound, rhodium plated, “fausses-côtes” decoration, 29 jewels, straight line lever escapement, 192 hour (8-day) power reserve sector with blued steel index, monometallic balance, self-compensating flat balance spring, shock protection.


Thursday, September 22, 2005

Corum The Golden Bridge

Only Watch 2005 charity auction. Piece unique . Case: Tonneau, 18K white gold sapphire crystals, winding crown at 6, downturned lugs. Dimensions: 40 x 32 mm. Bracelet: Crocodile, 18K white gold buckle. Dial: Hand painted miniature of two posturing stallions after the original by Hans Erni. White gold skeleton hands. Movement: Baguette “Golden Bridge”, 33 x 3 x 4.9 mm, hand-wound, 18K white gold, hand engraved decoration, monometallic balance with gold timing screws, maximum 40-hour power reserve. Accompanied by a lithography of the original artwork used on the dial.


Wednesday, September 21, 2005

Breguet Marine 5817PR No. 1.

Only Watch 2005 charity auction.The Marine 5817PR Designed in the grand tradition of the exclusive timepieces created by A.-L. Breguet himself for the Royal French Navy, the Marine 5817PR model’s assertive personality displays an arresting mix of refinement and modern spirit. Numbered 1/7, its stunning case features a pink gold frame with bezel and back in platinum. Its elegant 18K gold dial plate with black rhodium finish is enhanced by a subtle wave pattern, engine-turned by hand in the traditional manner. Faceted pink gold hands show the time on its silvered chapter ring’s pink gold numerals. Chased entirely by an engraver’s steady hand, the self-winding movement’s decor alludes to the achievements of astronomers, navigators and explorers of the past in a fascinating display that includes a sailing ship, naval knots, navigational stars and instruments. Its dramatic good looks are due in part to the contrast between its dark, oxidized frame and its bright, pink gold oscillating weight designed like a sextant. Adding a trim contemporary note, this salute to the collection’s early history comes with a sporty black rubber strap. Painstakingly finished and elaborately decorated by hand, the design’s unique character embodies a full measure of respect for the centuries-old values and spirit underpinning Breguet’s reputation. Case: Round, 18K pink gold, with fluted caseband, bezel and case back in platinum, screw-down crown, round-ended screw-secured lugs. Caseback hand-engraved on a rose engine, with sapphire crystal, Water-resistant to 100 meters (~ 330 feet). Bracelet: Rubber with deployant clasp. Diameter: 39 mm. Thickness: 11,85 mm. Dial: Black rhodium on 18K gold, engraved by hand on a rose engine, silvered chapter ring with applied pink gilt Roman numerals, center seconds hand, large date aperture at 6 o’clock. Luminous gold Breguet hands. Movement: Cal. 517GG, 11’’’1/2, self-winding, entirely chased with relievo engraving and blackened by oxidation to represent traditional sailing themes: a sailing ship, celestial bodies (sun, North Star, constellations), naval rope knots, wind rose and names of astronomers, navigators and explorers, 25 jewels. 65-hour power reserve, straight-line lever escapemen, monometallic balance adjusted in 5 positions, 28,800 VPH. 18K pink gold rotor shaped like a ship’s sextant.


Tuesday, September 20, 2005

Blancpain Leman Only Watch 2005

Piece unique for the "Only Watch 2005" charity auction, sapphire dial, large date, centre seconds-hand, self-winding. Calibre 6950A Thickness: 4.75 mm Diameter: 32.00 mm Power reserve: 70 hours Rubies: 35 Components: 285 Brushed red-gold case Thickness: 11.40 mm Diameter: 40 mm Water-Resistance: 100 m Sapphire case-back Between horns: 22 mm.


Monday, September 19, 2005

Antoine Preziuso T21 Muonionalusta Tourbillon

Only Watch 2005 charity auction. Piece unique. The T21 “…Few new watches can immediately be described as museum pieces. Due to the phenomenal interest it arouses, the T21 could legitimately claim a place in a museum dedicated to watchmaking, but also in a natural history, science or art museum. In addition to its technical qualities, the T21 represents a conversation piece that inevitably leads to deep and fascinating discussions and, on an even simpler level, inspires dreams. Dreams of space, of eternity, of the infinitely large and the infinitely small. With the T21, Antoine Preziuso has once again succeeded in offering us the gift of a good time!” Quote taken from GMT, Spring-Summer 2005 edition. Case: Precision-milled from a single piece of the “Muonionalusta” meteorite, circular, sloped bezel, downturned lugs, sapphire crystals, case back secured by screws. Bracelet: Mississippi alligator, meteorite buckle. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness: 10 mm. Dial: Milled from the “Muonionalusta” meteorite, luminous Arabic quarters, cut away at the bottom to view the tourbillion regulator. Luminous “Feuille” hands. Movement: Calibre AP/T21, 13’’’, manual winding, rhodium plated, hand-engraved decoration, double barrel, one-minute tourbillon regulator, monometallic balance, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, 28,800 VPH, 72-hour power reserve.


Sunday, September 18, 2005

Svend Andersen The Eros

"Only Watch 2005", "Navigation Pleasure", Piece Unique
Case: 18K white gold, cushion-shaped, reversible central case, sapphire crystals. Dimensions: 46 x 42 mm. Thickness: 15 mm. Bracelet: pony hide, 18K white gold buckle. Dial: Front: Marquetry work in four types of wood, representing a compass. Back: Hand-painted erotic automaton scene with ten animated parts moving at different rythms. Movement ement:: Calibre ANDERSEN 497, manual winding, two-trains, 36-hour power reserve for the going train, two minutes for the automaton train, rhodium-plated, “fausses-cotes” decoration, 22 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring, micrometer regulator.


Saturday, September 17, 2005

IWC Ingenieur Chronograph AMG

Automatic chronograph movement. Calibre 79350. 28 800/h / 4 Hz. 31 Jewels. Power-reserve: 44 h. Automatic Winding. Hour and minute hands. Small seconds hand with stop function. Chronograph with central seconds hand and 30-minute counter. Luminous elements on hands and indices. Power reserve of 44 hours when fully wound. IWC metal bracelet system with folding clasp. Soft-iron inner case for protection against magnetic fields. Screw-in crown. Sapphire glass coated on both sides. Water-resistant to 120 m.


Thursday, September 15, 2005

Harry Winston Opus V by Felix Baumgartner

Mechanical off-centered movement with satellite hour display and retrograde minute hand moving over a 120 degree counter. power-reserve indicator (122 hours). Day and night indication. "Service indicator" measuring the operation of the movement over 5 years. Index adjustement screw. Click-spring crown protector with "gull-wing opening". Case secured by four specific screws. Water resistant to 30 meters.

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Wednesday, September 14, 2005

Breitling Superocean Steelfish

Sturdiness, readability, functionality: since 1957, Superocean has been distinguished by its technical qualities and its sophisticated lines. A blend of elegance and performance that has earned it an excellent reputation among diver’s watches. The Steelfish special series is encased in a steel shell that is water-resistant to 1,500 metres, equivalent to a depth of 150 bars. To achieve this, it is equipped with a security valve that balances out the differences in pressure inside and outside the case. The lines of the case are highlighted by the contrast between polished and satin-brushed surfaces. The dial features circular hour-markers and oversized hands guaranteeing excellent readability. The Superocean Steelfish houses Breitling Caliber 17, a chronometer-certified self-winding movement. Screw-locked crown, unidirectional ratcheted rotating bezel, domed sapphire crystal, diameter of 42 mm. Barenia leather, buffalo skin or rubber strap, metal bracelet.


Certina DS Podium Special Sauber F1

Stainless steel watch equipped with a Swiss Made quartz ETA Fashionline G10.211 movement. Chronograph with ADD and SPLIT functions, 30-minute and 1/10th second counters, black carbon dial and black PVD treatment on window and white tachymeter markings, central 60-second counter, date at 4 o’clock, special O-ring seal on crown and stem, leather strap, water-resistant to 100 metres.


Tuesday, September 13, 2005

Blancpain Aqua Lung Grande Date

Caliber: Type 6950. Diameter 30mm, height 4.75mm. Power reserve of 70h.35 jewels. 283 components. Case: Diameter 40mm, height 11.4mm. Water resistant to 100m. Sapphire case back. Limited edition of 2005 watches only.


Monday, September 12, 2005

Zenith Grande Chronomaster XXT Quantieme Perpetuel El Primero

Caliber El Primero 4003. Automatic chronograph movement with perpetual calendar.COSC certified. 13 1/4 caliber. Diameter:30 mm. Height:8.10 mm. 321 component, 36’000 vibrations per hour. Power reserve over 50 hours. 31 jewels. Measures short time intervals to a 10th of a second. Automatic winding in both directions. Central rotor on ball bearings. 22-carat white gold oscillating weight with "Grain d’orge" guilloché pattern. Functions Hour and minutes in the center. Small seconds-hand at 9 o’clock. Perpetual calendar: Date at 3 o’clock. Moon phases at 6 o’clock. Day at 9 o’clock. Month and leap year at 12 o’clock. Center seconds-hand: 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock. Tachometric scale on the dial. Case: Platinum 950 PT or platinum "baguette" set (60 diamonds, 5.4-ct). 18-carat white gold ZENITH push buttons and crown. Diameter:45 mm. Diameter opening : 35 mm .Curved sapphire glass with anti-reflection treatment on both sides
Transparent sapphire case back. Water-resistance up to 30 meters. Dial: Gold dial or gold mother of pearl dial on set version. Silvered hand-made guilloché dial with "Grain d’Orge" pattern. 18-carat white gold hand-mounted applique indexes or hand-mounted diamonds indexes (11 diamonds, 0.3-ct). White gold hand-mounted appliqué indexes. Hands: 5 white gold faceted hands. 4 baton hands. Strap: Black alligator leather strap, hand-stitched tone-in-tone, lined with silky Alzavel calfskin. Black leather strap with satin stripe on set version. Buckle: Platinum ChronoMaster triple folding buckle stamped with the historical ZENITH star on the cap.


Sunday, September 11, 2005

Bulagari Diagono Professional Regatta

The Diagono Professional Regatta represents the ultimate watch for the yachting and sailing enthusiasts. This prestigious timepiece, which features a thick 40 mm. case in stainless steel and a rubber bracelet with stainless steel links and déployante buckle, has a fly-back Dubois-Dépraz automatic movement, with a highly precise mechanism allowing the rapid visualization of the elapsed time through a minute amplification display on the dial. Other distinctive features of this model are the compass marked bi-rotating bezel and the special dial indicators, which give reliable tactical navigation support. Swiss made, this watch is water-resistant to 300 meters.


Saturday, September 10, 2005

Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Tonneaugraph

Movement: CFB 1960. Power reserve: 42 h. Jewels: 38. Automatic Chronograph. Power reserve indication. Big date. Stainlesss steel case, screwed crown, sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 50 m. Louisiana alligator leather strap, Folding clasp


Thursday, September 08, 2005

Zenith Grande Class Traveller Repetition Minutes

Caliber:NEW El Primero 4031. Automatic chronograph movement with Minute Repeater, Alarm function (with vibrating alert or buzzer), Dual Time function, Large Date and Triple Power Reserve indicators (movement, alarm and minute repeater). 744 components, 63 jewels. 13 ¼’’’ caliber. Diameter : 30 mm. Height : 12.98 mm. 36’000 vibrations per hour. Measures short time intervals to a 10th of a second. Power reserve over 50 hours. Automatic winding in both directions for the movement, the Minute Repeater and the Alarm. Central rotor on ballbearings. 22-carat white gold oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” pattern.


Wednesday, September 07, 2005

Bulgari Assioma

Assioma watch with yellow gold case and déployante buckle, and alligator strap. Chronograph with mechanical movement, automatic winding and date. Large size.


Tuesday, September 06, 2005

Chronoswiss Regulateur a Tourbillion

Two centuries of "whirlwind" are a worthy occasion to introduce the "Régulateur à Tourbillon." This timepiece is the expression of the fascination that emanates from this little marvel. The tourbillon's cage completes one rotation around its own axis every 60 seconds. The balance, balance-spring, and escapement all rotate along with it, thereby outsmarting gravity and ensuring that time never strays out of equilibrium. A fine but decisive difference is built into the little cage at the "6" which takes the place of a seconds-hand. As Breguet had opted to do centuries ago, here too the cage carries a classical screw balance, balance-spring, and escapement mechanism. This watch is also a genuine premiere because, to the best of my knowledge, no wristwatch has ever before included both a tourbillon mechanism and a regulator dial. Movement: Chronoswiss Caliber C.361, manual winding. Displays hour,minute and second. Blued steel hands. Diameter 38mm, height 10.6mm. Platinium versions limited to 99 pieces worldwide.


Monday, September 05, 2005

Tag Heuer Calibre 360

Avant-Garde Daringness in motion: The TAG Heuer Calibre 360 Concept Chronograph
The first ever 1/100th of a second mechanical wrist chronograph. TAG Heuer, the world leader in prestigious chronographs since 1860, which has set several major milestones in Swiss chronograph history, is presenting at Baselworld 2005 the most accurate mechanical timepiece ever crafted, the Calibre 360 Concept Chronograph. The Calibre 360 Concept Chronograph is the first mechanical wrist chronograph to measure and display time to 1/100th of a second, thanks to the exceptionally high frequency of its balance wheel, which oscillates at 360,000 beats per hour, 10 times faster than any other chronograph a rate that until now was considered impossible. More than ever, with this quantum leap in mechanical watchmaking accuracy, TAG Heuer asserts its unique know-how and reaffirms its motto: Swiss avant-garde since 1860.


Friday, September 02, 2005


Graduation on a measuring instrument, showing the divisions of a whole of values, especially on a dial, bezel. The scales mostly used in horology are related to the following measuring devices: tachometer (s.) (indicating the average speed), telemeter (s.) (indicating the distance of a simultaneously luminous and acoustic source, e.g. a cannon-shot or a thunder and related lightning), pulsometer (to calculate the total number of heartbeats per minute by counting only a certain quantity of them). For all of these scales, measuring starts at the beginning of the event concerned and stops at its end; the reading refers directly to the chronograph second hand, without requiring further calculations.
SECTOR, s. Rotor.
SELF-WINDING, s. Automatic.
Watches provided with shock-absorber systems (e.g. Incabloc) help prevent damage from shocks to the balance pivots. Thanks to a retaining spring system, it assures an elastic play of both jewels, thus absorbing the movements of the balance-staff pivots when the watch receives strong shocks. The return to the previous position is due to the return effect of the spring. If such a system is lacking, the shock forces exert an impact on the balance-staff pivots, often causing bending or even breakage.
Watches whose bridges and pillar-plates are cut out in a decorative manner, thus revealing all the parts of the movement.
Part of a mechanism moving with friction on a slide-bar or guide.
Time display in which the second hand is placed in a small subdial.
Decoration with a spiral pattern, mainly used on the barrel wheel or on big-sized full wheels.
Function consisting of an acoustic sound, obtained by a striking work made up of two hammers (s.) striking gongs (s.) at set hours, quarter- and half-hours. Some devices can emit a chime (with three or even four hammers and gongs). By a slide (s.) or an additional pusher (s.) it is possible to exclude the sonnerie device and to select a so-called grande sonnerie.
Chronographs with split-second mechanisms are particularly useful for timing simultaneous phenomena which begin at the same time, but end at different times, such as sporting events in which several competitors are taking part. In chronographs of this type, an additional hand is superimposed on the chronograph hand. Pressure on the pusher starts both hands, which remain superimposed as long as the split-second mechanism is not blocked. This is achieved when the split-second hand is stopped while the chronograph hand continues to move. After recording, the same pusher is pressed a second time, releasing the split-second hand, which instantly joins the still-moving chronograph hand, synchronizing with it, and is thus ready for another recording. Pressure on the return pusher brings the hands back to zero simultaneously, provided the split-second hand is not blocked. Pressure on the split pusher releases the split-second hand, which
instantly joins the chronograph hand if the split-second hand happens to be blocked.
STAFF or STEM, s. Arbor.
STRIKING WORK, s. Sonnerie and Repeater.
SUBDIAL, s. Zone.
SUPER-LUMINOVA, s. Luminescent.
A center second hand, i.e. a second hand mounted on the center of the main dial.
Function measuring the speed at which the wearer runs over a given distance. The tachometer scale is calibrated to show the speed of a moving object, such as a vehicle, over a known distance. The standard length on which the calibration is based is always shown on the dial, e.g. 1,000, 200 or 100 meters, or—in some cases—one mile. As the moving vehicle, for instance, passes the starting-point of the measured course whose length corresponds to that used as the basis of calibration, the observer releases the chronograph hand and stops it as the vehicle passes the finishing point. The figure
indicated by the hand on the tachometer scale represents the speed in kilometers or miles per hour.
By means of the telemeter scale, it is possible to measure the distance of a phenomenon that is both visible and audible. The chronograph hand is released at the instant the phenomenon is seen; it is stopped when the sound is heard, and its position on the scale shows, at a glance, the distance in kilometers or miles separating the phenomenon from the observer.
Calibration is based upon the speed at which sound travels through the air, viz. approximately 340 meters or 1,115 feet per second. During a thunderstorm, the time that has elapsed between the flash of lightning and the sound of the thunder is registered on the chronograph scale.
Particular shape of a watchcase, imitating the profile of a barrel, i.e. with straight, shorter, horizontal sides and curved, longer, vertical sides.
Device invented in 1801 by A. L. Breguet. This function equalizes position errors due to changing positions of a watch and related effects of gravity. Balance, balance spring and escapement are housed inside a carriage (s.), also called a cage, rotating by one revolution per minute, thus compensating for all the possible errors over 360 degree
Although this device is not absolutely necessary for accuracy purposes today, it is still appreciated as a complication of high-quality watches.
Movement of a pendulum or other oscillating bodies, limited by two consecutive extreme positions. In an alternate (pendulum or balance) movement, a vibration is a half of an oscillation (s.). The number of hourly vibrations corresponds to the frequency of a watch movement, determined by the mass and diameter of a balance (s.) and the elastic force of the balance spring. The number of vibrations per hour (vph) determines the breaking up of time (the “steps of a second hand). For instance, 18,000 vph equals a vibration duration of 1/5 second; in the same way 21,600 vph = 1/6 second; 28,800 vph = 1/8 second; 36,000 vph = 1/10 second. Until the 1950s, wristwatches worked mostly at a frequency of 18,000 vph; later, higher frequencies were adopted to produce a lower percentage of irregularities to the rate. Today, the most common frequency adopted is 28,800 vph, which assures a good precision standard and less lubrication problems than extremely high frequencies, such as 36,000 vph.
A watch whose case (s.) is designed in such a way as to resist infiltration by water (3 atmospheres, corresponding to a conventional depth of 30 meters; 5 atmospheres, corresponding to a conventional depth of 50 meters.)
Circular element, mostly toothed, combines with an arbor (s.) and a pinion (s.) to make up a gear (s.). Wheels are normally made of brass, while arbors and pinions are made of steel. The wheels between barrel (s.) and escapement (s.) make up the so-called train (s.).
Element transmitting motion from the crown (s.) to the gears governing manual winding and setting.
Aperture in the dial, that allows reading the underlying indication, mainly the date, but also indications concerning a second zone’s time or jumping hour (s.).
Additional feature of watches provided with a GMT (s.) function, displaying the 24 time zones on the dial or bezel, each zone referenced by a city name, providing instantaneous reading of the time of any country.
Small additional dial or indicator that may be positioned, or placed off-center on the main dial, used for the display of various functions (e.g. second counters).


Locman Latin Lover

Mechanical automatic movement. Anatomical steel case with rotating lugs for a very comfortable fit on any size wrist. Natural hand-set brilliant-cut diamonds, Iguana leather strap. Functions: Date calendar, window display. Crystal: Curved mineral glass. Water Resistance: 30m/99ft/3atm. Case Size: 50.00mm. 32.00mm. 14.00mm.


Thursday, September 01, 2005


Device of the escapement (s.) transmitting part of the motive force to the balance (s.), in order to maintain the amplitude of oscillations unchanged by freeing a tooth of the escape wheel at one time.
Supporting element of bridges (s.) and other parts of a movement (s).
Combines with a wheel and an arbor (s.) to form a gear (s.). A pinion has less teeth than a wheel and transmits motive force to a wheel. Pinion teeth (normally 6 to 14) are highly polished to reduce friction to a minimum.
End of an arbor (s.) turning on a jewel (s.) support. As their shape and size can influence friction, the pivots of the balance-staff are particularly thin and, hence, fragile, so they are protected by a shockproof (s.) system.
Said of a metal treated by a galvanizing procedure in order to apply a slight layer of gold or another precious metal (silver, chromium, rhodium or palladium) on a brass or steel base.
A synthetic resin used for watch crystal.
Distinction assigned by the Canton of Geneva to movements produced by watchmaker firms of the Region and complying with all the standards of high horology with respect to craftsmanship, small-scale production, working quality, accurate assembly and setting. The Geneva Seal is engraved on at least one bridge and shows the Canton’s symbol, i.e. a two-field shield with an eagle and a key respectively in each field.
Duration (in hours) of the residual functioning autonomy of a movement after it has reached the winding peak. The duration value is displayed by an instantaneous indicator: analog (hand on a sector) or digital (through a window). The related mechanism is made up of a series of gears linking the winding barrel and hand. Recently, specific modules were introduced which may be combined with the most popular movements.
The pulsimeter scale shows, at a glance, the number of pulse beats per minute. The observer releases the chronograph hand when starting to count the beats and stops at the 30th, the 20th or the 15th beat according to the basis of calibration indicated on the dial.
Mechanical element mounted on a case (s.) for the control of specific functions. Generally, pushers are used in chronographs (s.), but also with other functions.
Abbreviation of Physical Vapor Deposition, a plating process consisting of the physical transfer of substance by bombardment of electrons.
Made up by balance (s.) and balance spring (s.), governing the division of time within the mechanical movement, assuring its regular running and accuracy. As the balance works like a pendulum, the balance spring’s function consists of its elastic return and starting of a new oscillation. This combined action determines the frequency, i.e. the number of vibrations per hour, and affects the rotation speed of the different wheels. In fact the balance, by its oscillations, at every vibration (through the action of the pallets), frees a tooth of the escape wheel (s. Escapement). From this, motion is transmitted to the fourth wheel, which makes a revolution in one minute, to the third and then the center wheel, the latter making a full rotation in one hour. However, everything is determined by the correct time interval of the oscillations of the balance.
Regulating the functioning of a movement by lengthening and shortening the active section of the balance spring (s.). It is positioned on the balance-bridge and encompasses the balance spring with its two pins near its fixing point on the bridge itself. By shifting the index, the pins also are moved and, by consequence, the portion of the balance spring capable of bringing the balance back is lengthened or shortened by its elastic force. The shorter it is, the more reactive it tends to be and the more rapidly it brings the balance back and makes the movement run faster. The contrary happens when the active portion of the balance spring is lengthened. Given today’s high frequencies of functioning, even slight index shifts entail daily variations of minutes. Recently, even more refined index-regulation systems were adopted (from eccentric (s.) to micrometer screws (s.)) to limit error margins to very few seconds per day.
Mechanism indicating time by acoustic sounds. Contrary to the watches provided with en-passant sonnerie (s.) devices, that strike the number of hours automatically, repeaters work on demand by actuating a slide (s.) or pusher (s.) positioned on the case side. Repeaters are normally provided with two hammers and two gongs: one gong for the minutes and one for the hours. The quarters are obtained by the almost simultaneous strike of both hammers. The mechanism of the striking work is among the most complex complications.
Said of a hand (s.) that, instead of making a revolution of 360?before starting a new measurement, moves on an arc scale (generally of 90?to 180? and at the end of its trip comes back instantaneously. Normally, retrograde hands are used to indicate date, day or month in perpetual calendars, but there are also cases of retrograde hours, minutes or seconds. Unlike the case of the classical indication over 360? the retrograde system requires a special mechanism to be inserted into the basic movement.
In automatic-winding mechanical movements the rotor is the part that, by its complete or partial revolutions and the movements of human arm, allows winding of the mainspring (s.).


Ulysse Nardin Ulysse I Chronometer

The Ulysse I is equipped with the same type of power reserve indicator used in Ulysse Nardin pocket watches produced in 1912. The power reserve is unique in that both the small hand and the underlying disk turn. When the movement is wound (up), either manually or automatically by the movements of the wrist when the watch is being worn, the small disk below the figure 12 turns counter-clockwise until the largest segment of the scale reaches the power reserve hand.As the movement unwinds (down) when the watch is not worn, the power reserve hand turns counter-clockwise down on the scale shown on the disk until it reaches the smallest segment of the scale. On standard power reserve indicators only the hand moves down on a printed scale on the dial. The self-winding movement is fully wound when the hand points to the largest segment on the disk. The movement has a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Chronometer Certificate C.O.S.C.
ULYSSE I Chronometer undergoes the rigorous tests of the Swiss Official Chronometer Control which certifies the reliability and accuracy of this exceptional timepiece. The 18 ct rose gold case is water-resistant to 50 meters and fitted with a screw down crown. The domed sapphire crystal is treated on both sides with an antireflection coating. Each case is individually numbered. Diameter:40 mm. Case: 18 ct rose gold. White dial. Movement:UN-27. Power-reserve: Approx. 42 hours. Self-winding. Water-resistant to50 meters. Sapphire crystal. Leather strap with Standard buckle.


Glashutte PanoMatic Tourbillion

Following in the tradition of tourbillon production, the designers at Glashütte Original have united one of the most difficult complications of classical watchmaking with innovative design and the panorama date in the PanoMaticTourbillon.This year, the luxury Saxon manufactory presents for the first time a rose gold variation of the precious timekeeper in a limited edition of 100 pieces worldwide. Situated within the well-known asymmetrical dial visuals of the line, the filigreed carriage makes a special statement.Seeming to float, the perfect, fine tourbillon cage rotates to the beat of the seconds it also displays.Golden hands glide across the yellow gold dial so finely engine-turned by hand in clous de Paris style. The panorama date so characteristic of the company lends the demanding range its name and simultaneously adds the perfect element to complete this masterpiece’s impressive appearance.The flying tourbillon according to Glashütte master watchmaker Alfred Helwig has had a long tradition in the Saxon manufactory and has lost none of its horological importance and fascinating mechanics even in the present day.Glashütte Original’s watchmakers have for the first time placed this construction into a watch with automatic winding to form the PanoMaticTourbillon, thereby creating a composition that contemporarily interprets the art of haute horlogerie.